A Yarn Journey to Bihar, India
Julie Colquitt from YarnYarn takes us on a journey to Bihar, India, to show how her ethical yarns and silk sari ribbons are produced, and how these yarns are helping to support a small community of women and their families.
Once you have felt the Indian dust you will never be free of it.
– Rumer Godden, 1975
There is no place like India. It shakes you from all sides. From emotional sadness at the disparities of wealth to immense feelings of fun and laughter shared with the people you meet there. India is raw, it’s extreme, it’s humanity. I think you develop a greater inspiration for the planet. Laugh you may… if you have never been.
We set off in a truck into the wilds to visit deprived villages where women spin yarn. They don’t spin yarn for tourists or groups of artists interested in learning the wonders of the textile industry that India is famous for. They spin because it’s their only source of income.
We leave the UK heading for a special place. We fly via Abu Dhabi. A couple of days later we arrive in India. We take a sleeper up north into the state of Bihar. We are met at 4am and taken to a hotel where we rest for a few hours before we set off in a truck into the wilds to visit deprived villages where women spin yarn. They don’t spin yarn for tourists or groups of artists interested in learning the wonders of the textile industry that India is famous for. They spin because it’s their only source of income. We can glamourise spinning by traditional ways, with drop spindles and charkas. We can glamourise the colours, the smiles, the talent, but in fact, we are humbled, repulsed, emotional, shocked and yet excited and amazed at their talent.
We can glamourise spinning by traditional ways, with drop spindles and charkas. We can glamourise the colours, the smiles, the talent, but in fact, we are humbled, repulsed, emotional, shocked and yet excited and amazed at their talent.
We enter a village where wild dogs lie sleeping, what seems like one thousand skinny goats hop around and chickens cluck. We are welcomed by a few children and a couple of women. I have a huge lump in my throat which recedes, eventually. These people live on top of their open sewers. They have no electricity or running water. They live in houses made of cow dung. Night-time falls, pitch dark, tools down, that’s it. Primitive living.
We enter a village where wild dogs lie sleeping, what seems like one thousand skinny goats hop around and chickens cluck. We are welcomed by a few children and a couple of women. I have a huge lump in my throat which recedes, eventually.
The women sit on a wooden plank that’s painted blue. A few children loiter around mesmerised by us. Within a few minutes there are a few more. Within about 10 minutes there are about 70 onlookers just loving the excitement of Western faces visiting their village. After watching for a while I needed to try this drop spindle spinning. This caused hilarity in the yard as I was totally useless at it. My hands in knots, their laughter infectious. It takes a whole day to produce 2kg of yarn using a drop spindle. It’s hard work on the fingers.
After watching for a while I needed to try this drop spindle spinning. This caused hilarity in the yard as I was totally useless at it. My hands in knots, their laughter infectious.
They sit together and spin and chat. They are proud of their work. This is their only source of income. Spinning these yarns give these women and families a life – it gives these women a sense of purpose. Unfortunately in these villages the men drink liquor and do not contribute to the family. It’s a big problem in Bihar. The children just want to be like their mothers. I could have spent all day there with these special people. It was such fun. I will miss them. I was very sad to leave this village.
The women sit together and spin and chat. They are proud of their work. Spinning these yarns give these women and families a life – it gives these women a sense of purpose. Unfortunately in these villages the men drink liquor and do not contribute to the family. It’s a big problem in Bihar.
We then visit a weaver’s home. It’s mainly men who do the weaving here. Their hand looms are handmade from waste bits of wood. They build a hole in the ground for their feet and get to work. The fabrics they make are produced from silk waste, linen waste, cotton waste and other waste fibres. It takes about one day to produce four metres of fabric. If it rains they can’t work, as there are holes in the roof, like in the monsoon season, for instance. We’re working with our Indian colleagues to repair the roofs with Yarn Yarn profits.
Weaving and Hand Looms
It takes about one day to weave four metres of fabric. If it rains, they can’t work, as there are holes in the roof, like in the monsoon season, for instance. There’s so much work that goes into producing each piece of fabric. I just hope their customers and the department stores appreciate it.
Cushion covers, curtains, throws and rugs are all produced here. There is so much work that goes into producing each piece of fabric. I just hope their customers and the department stores appreciate it.
Government-funded schools are not run very well. The children have no pens, pencils, paper or textbooks. Thanks to our customers, Yarn Yarn are now providing this school with stationery, pens, pencils, textbooks and paper – all out of the profits from the selling the yarn.
As we drive to the next port of call we pass a government-run school. We stop and visit. The children run to us, so excited at seeing Western faces. They beam. Government-funded schools are not run very well. The children have no pens, pencils, paper or textbooks. The school teacher can barely speak English. We were humbled and I couldn’t stop thinking about these children. Thanks to our customers, Yarn Yarn are now providing this school with stationery, pens, pencils, textbooks and paper – all out of the profits from the selling the yarn.
By now the heat is around 37 degrees and humid it’s only 9am.
Dying, drying and sari ribbon production
The dying of the sari silk waste fibres and banana yarn fibres is done in huge batts. The fibres are steeped in dyes for three to four hours.
The dying of the sari silk waste fibres and banana yarn fibres is done in huge batts. The fibres are steeped in dyes for three to four hours. The dyes used are azo-free and of oeko tex standards as per EU norms. Once the fibres have been dyed, they are pulled from the great batts with a wooden rod and slapped against an old fridge door to drain. Then they are hung out on the rooftops to dry before spinning. Primitive measures, magical yarns.
Once the fibres have been dyed, they are pulled from the great batts with a wooden rod and slapped against an old fridge door to drain. Then they are hung out on the rooftops to dry before spinning. Primitive measures, magical yarns.
Sari Silk Ribbon
Sari silk fabric waste scraps are taken from the bags from the sari mills and emptied. They are then sorted and torn, before being sewn end to end to form a continuous yarn called sari silk ribbon.
The sari silk fabric waste scraps are taken from the bags from the sari mills and emptied. They are then sorted and torn. After that the scraps are sewn end to end using the most amazing sewing machines to form a continuous yarn called sari silk ribbon. The woman on the right is tearing the sari silk ribbon which is undyed. I’m trying to sew the torn fabric together, but I’m not so good with a hand-winder sewing machine.
These women are sorting through the multicoloured sari silk fabric waste.
The dying of the sari silk ribbon is exactly the same process as the dying of the sari silk fibres. It’s done in huge batts, then hung out to dry in back yards. For the spray paint effect, they use little pots of dye and a paint brush, dip and spray.
For the spray paint effect, they use little pots of dye and a paint brush, dip and spray.
Block printing on silk
We also visited an inspiring artist who block printed, screen printed and hand painted saris and scarves – all silk. I was rather taken with his work on the scarves with silk paints. What a talented man.
At the end of our day we went back to my colleague’s home where we hung out for a while and had our hands painted with henna. We had some coffee and homemade Indian cakes before we stepped on to that sleeper train back to the city. I was very sad to leave and I hold this trip close to my heart.
You can buy the yarns, sari silk ribbons and banana yarns produced here in Julie’s supplies shop, YarnYarn on Folksy. Every yarn purchased helps support the women who make them and their families.
Visit YarnYarn on Folksy >
